One of the first steps in creating a couture garment is making a toile or muslin before making the garment in the fashion fabric. Muslin is an inexpensive fabric that is used to test a pattern or drape a design. It allows fit, design, and construction issues to be fine-tuned prior to cutting into the often expensive garment fabric.

Previously, I shared the steps in drafting a barrel cut sleeve pattern. I wanted to test this sleeve pattern and perfect the fit of the rest of the shirt before cutting into a very fine black Italian cotton. So, I made a toile out of cotton muslin first.

It has been a long time since I attempted to make a tailored shirt. The mock-up was great for practicing some different skills for me such as construction of the collar, setting in sleeves, plackets, cuffs, buttonholes, and flat felled seams. There are many elements to a tailored shirt, and I wanted to get it right before cutting into my good fabric. I did have to refer to Reader’s Digest Complete Book of Sewing and even watched a video, The Classic Tailored Shirt with Pam Howard, on Craftsy.com.

Overall, I am pretty happy with the fit and I think it is very similar to the Lemaire shirt (below).

To make the toile, these are the steps I followed.

• I pinned my shirt pattern pieces to the muslin, and marked all important placement lines, grain line directions, center front, center back, and notches directly on the muslin. I also marked the recommended seam line of 5/8″ from the pattern cut edge. I used carbon wax paper and a tracing wheel as well as a pencil to make all my markings. Do not use carbon wax paper to mark seam lines on your fashion fabric. Use chalk or erasable pens instead.

• Once you have marked the seam line, mark on your muslin with a pencil an extra wide seam allowance (1 1/2 to 2 inches from the seam line) for problematic areas such as side seams and shoulder seams. This will be your new cut line.

Most seam allowances in industry patterns are 5/8 inch, which is not enough when you are doing a fitting. In determining how much seam allowance to add for either the toile or the final garment, it really depends on what you are making, the type of fashion fabric you are using, and the particular area of the body the seam touches. For instance, I would not add extra seam allowance to a neck line but I would definitely add it to a side seam and shoulder seam. Also, if I was making a corset or sewing a bias silk garment, I would have at least 1 1/2 inches for seam allowance. However, if I was making a tailored shirt out of cotton, I would stick to the 5/8 inch seam allowance (that is once I had fit the toile to me). Just ask yourself, is my fabric very fine or does it ravel easily?  If yes, add more seam allowance. Is this the area usually a fit problem for me? If yes, add more seam allowance.

• Next, I cut out all the pattern pieces.
• I then sewed the muslin pieces together using a long basting stitch on the machine, following the carbon marked seam lines.
• I tried the shirt on for my first fitting. (See below resources for guidance on fitting)
• Based on the fitting, I decided I needed to let the side seam out by 1/4″. Still using a long stitch length on my machine, I sewed a new seam line on the sides and removed the previous stitches with a seam ripper.
•  I tried the garment on again, and I was happy with the fit. This doesn’t usually happen. Sometimes, I will fit the toile a dozen times.

Now that the toile fits and is complete, I have to turn it into a pattern to use for cutting the fashion fabric. I can either:

1) mark the original pattern with the necessary changes

or 2) use the muslin pieces as my new pattern.

It is simple to turn a muslin into a pattern. Just trace the final seam lines with a sharpie (on both sides) and then rip out all the seams with a seam ripper. Then press all the muslin pieces flat.

Be sure to mark the muslin pieces with important notes and information that will help you in the final construction process.

Making the toile is the easy part. The fitting part definitely takes more patience and practice. There are an abundance of resources you can turn to for help with fitting problems. I frequently refer to books like The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblan, Fitting Finesse by Nancy Zieman, and Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.

I sometimes seek out other sewing friends and experts. Taking pictures of yourself in the garment is also helpful.

I highly recommend always making a muslin before starting a new sewing project. It saves a lot of time, money and frustration. The end result is a garment made with care and that fits perfectly.