In Balanciaga: Fashion’s Picasso, I discussed the concept of space and it’s relevance to Balenciaga’s designs late in his career. There are other Japanese influences that appear in his designs as well, such as the kimono. To me, the kimono is another example of ma. The kimono sleeve is just a square sewn into a loop with one seem, but it’s exaggerated size drapes so beautifully on the arm because of the space – an element that would be lost on a fitted garment.

I made a jacket similar to Balenciaga’s original 1950 design. It is like a kimono yet it has Balenciaga’s own unique flare. The extra large sleeve is pleated just at the center top and gives the sleeve an almost organic spiral shape. It reminds me of a ram’s horn or nautilus shell.

The pattern I used for this design was drafted by Sandra Ericson (previously of Center for Pattern Design). She created a half scale pattern of the jacket after attending a class taught by Salvador, the head tailor in Balenciaga’s atelier, at a symposium at the Fashion Institute and Technology in New York in the 1970’s. The half scale pattern is available at L’Etoffe Fabrics. You can read more about the design of the pleated paletot and see an image of the original here.

It is very easy to have the half-scale pattern enlarged and printed to full scale by a professional printing shop. The pattern does not come with detailed instructions, so I am sharing a pictorial summary for constructing it in case you want to try it for yourself. I would love to hear your results, so please post in the comments!

TIPS

• Select a fabric that has a nice drape. I used a double wool crepe.
• I did not line the jacket so I had to determine how to best finish the seams ahead of time.
• I cut the two front/back pieces along the selvedge, so that I could make use of the already finished edge.
• If you finish seams with a bias binding, choose one that is the same color as garment. At first, I thought I would bind the seam allowances with a fun print, but it distracted from the elegant design.
• I finished the sleeve seams with a hand overcast stitch as I wanted to keep things supple with all the folds.

• Avoid pressing directly with iron. Just hover steam iron over section you want to press or ease (hem) and then press with your fingers
• The front facing and hem can all be attached to the garment using a blind hand stitch. If the thread is a good match with fabric, it will be bury in the crepe and be inconspicuous from the right side of the garment.
• After the jacket is complete let it hang on a dress form. Hover a steam iron over pleats to set. Let garment hang for a few days to allow the folds to relax.

Enjoy wearing your Balenciaga inspired paletot!