I have shared my thoughts on Vionnet and the use of geometric shapes in previous posts, so it comes as no surprise that Vionnet used the Mobius as an inspiration for some of her garments.

Some quick facts about the Mobius:

• It has a surface with only one side and only one boundary.
• It has the mathematical property of being unorientable.
• It can be realized as a ruled length.
• German mathematicians discovered it in 1858 (i.e. August Ferdinand Möbius)
• A structure similar to the Möbius strip can be seen in Roman mosaics circa 200–250 AD.

One can create a Möbius strip by taking a strip of paper and twisting one end, and joining the ends together to form a loop. Vionnet did this except with fabric on the bias to create harmonious designs. The kimono sleeve (a square sewn into a loop without a twist) may have first been her inspiration for this feature in her garments. The use of loops (flat or twisted) gave a unique three-dimensionality to her dresses.

Here is a link to images of one of her Mobius style dress designs (1936) sold at auction. It is quite dramatic with a long sash that starts from the bodice at the front of the dress, wraps, twists to the back and sewn to the hem.

Above is an illustration of a gown that may be the same gown sold at auction.

Betty Kirke describes Vionnet’s use of the Mobius in her book Madeleine Vionnet* if you would like to see more examples. Pattern 8 (pgs 74-75) in Kirke’s book shows a pattern rendering for a Mobius dress. The pattern is simple and composed of three pieces. A front and back skirt cut on the bias and a long rectangular piece that incorporates the bodice and a sash, which loops and ties around the body. The rectangular piece is on the bias. Because of the length required, two bias strips must be sewn together along the straight of grain to create the long rectangle. It is easier to twist and manipulate the length of fabric because it is on the bias. 

The dress reminds me of a sari. A sari is nothing more than a long rectangular piece of cloth, but the artistic draping is fascinating. In Chantal Boulanger’s book, Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping*, she documents over 80 different ways this rectangular piece of cloth can be draped. Much like the sari, Vionnet’s Mobius dress is something that can be styled and re-imagined in multiple ways, which she did.

Using the Vionnet pattern book by Bunka* as a guide, I made a bias rectangle from double silk charmeuse. The finished width and length of the bias rectangle measured approximately 24 inches (60 cm) by 91 inches (230 cm). One end of the rectangle gets folded under to create the bodice, and then the rectangle is slashed vertically in half, stopping at the bodice.

Making the bias rectangle:

Let the draping begin!

What I have learned is that the design options are limitless. If you want to get inside Vionnet’s head, then make a bias rectangle and drape it. I spent two days draping various designs. There were so many options that I started to get decision fatigue. Loop or not loop, twist or not twist? Should the sash tie in the front, back, or drape to the floor? There is no wrong answer.
Eventually, I settled on a halter style, which I thought would be most flattering and comfortable. I also really wanted to incorporate other design inspirations I liked, such as the T-shaped back and the long dramatic drape from the neck to the floor in the back.

Once you have found your bodice style, attach it to a bias skirt like the one in the Bunka pattern book or something else of your liking. I used about 5 yards of 45-inch wide fabric, but you will need more fabric if you want a fuller skirt or wider Mobius. Drape to your heart’s content. The possibilities are endless, much like the Mobius!

*Sources

Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping by Chantal Boulanger, Shatki Press International, New York. 1997

Madeleine Vionnet by Betty Kirke, Chronicle Books LLC, San Francisco, 1998.

Vionnet by Bunka Fashion College, Japan, 2009.